In addition to spiritual enlightenment, an increased sense of adventure and self discovery, my trip is also a journey in search of the perfect grilled cheese. What is that? Well, it's the one my brother PJ made for me when I was about 7. Mom left him in charge of me (I lived to tell about it) and I think he burnt it slightly. I now order all my grilled cheeses almost burnt with one slice of cheese. You'd be amazed how hard it is to find such a simple sandwich made well. The Tune Inn in DC http://washingtondc.menupages.com/restaurantdetails.asp?areaid=0&restaurantid=23895 does a pretty good job, as does Regina's Continental Deli in West Annapolis.